Ibn Ibn Battuta

Ramadan Reflections: Diversity in Morocco, and the Myth of the Universal Majority

Catfights aside, I actually tend to enjoy Ramadan. In some years past, whether in Jordan, the US, or Morocco, I've even chosen to fast.

Of course, part of me enjoys the challenge, but the greatest motivation of all is not personal, but social. In any Muslim country, Ramadan presents one of the surest opportunities to get "in" with the locals. Fasting far surpasses the "gesture of solidarity" realm - it's not easy, as Muslims know firsthand. Because they fast out of religious conviction, many show respect for any non-Muslim with the capacity and willpower to partake voluntarily. In this most generous of seasons, that respect translates into a lot

Letter to the Editor: Pirates, Peace Treaties, and Prejudice

Last week I noticed an op-ed in the Baltimore Sun called "Rewriting the History of America and Islam" (Viewpoint; June 18, 2009). Written by a local academic, the piece outlined some of the sordid history behind America's early relations with Morocco - cited by President Obama in his Cairo speech as "the first nation to recognize my country."

The author's efforts to educate were well-intentioned, but part of me worried that local readers in Baltimore (admittedly not a hub of knowledge on the Islamic world) might misinterpret his message. The other part of me just wanted my name in the paper. Perhaps that second part shown through more

Local Elections: Room for Improvement

For days, the excitement was building up. First, symbols and posters began to appear in the numbered boxes spray-painted on walls around the country. Then, swarms of youths in matching t-shirts began parading the streets in ever-larger numbers, blocking traffic and leaving a stream of leaflets in their wake.

Here in Morocco, Friday was local election day. At stake? Some 28,000 municipal council seats across the country. Don't worry though, you can be forgiven for not knowing about the vote - most Moroccans themselves hardly seemed to notice.

After Cairo, a New Era Begins?

The speech came, the speech went. Here in Morocco, some watched, but many didn’t (it was 10:00am on a work day here when Obama began his address at Cairo University). The few Moroccans I’ve asked about it haven’t had much to say, and none have raised the topic on their own. Even in Egypt, (likely inflated) government figures indicate that only 55 percent of Egyptians watched or read about the speech.

Were it not for Obama’s mention of Morocco, press coverage here might have been non-existent. Even after the President’s reference, two of the three local newspapers I picked up the following morning made no mention of the speech. Those local press outlets that swooned at Obama’s

Tough Crowds Await Obama in Cairo and Beyond

Finally, the event we've all been waiting for has nearly arrived! That's right, it's Obama's much-hyped "address to the Muslim world", to be delivered at noon tomorrow at Cairo University in the heart of the Egyptian capital.

What's that, you say? The Muslim world isn't interested in yet more rhetoric and false promises from yet another American president?

No matter; the Egyptians (never known for being a quiet bunch) have plenty to say about the visit, though Obama isn't likely to find much of it favorable.

In a series of seven op-eds from around the Muslim world in today's New York Times, Egyptian journalist Hossam el Hamalawy equates Obama's choice of

Devolutionary Biology

In my previous travels, I have offered separate observations on both the turmoil in eastern DR Congo and the ecosystem collapse threatening Lake Victoria.

Delphine Schrank's brief report, "As Go the Hippos...", in the latest issue of The Atlantic highlights the intersection of these two phenomena beside another of Africa's Great Lakes. The resulting disaster, on the shores of Lac Edouard, is proving much greater than the sum of its parts.

Unfortunately, the convergence of economic, environmental, political, and population pressures is likely to make such multi-faceted disasters even more common in coming decades.

Man in the Street: Opinions of Obama from the Muslim World

A big thanks to my friend Jeb (an old buddy from my days in Jordan) and his colleagues Matt and MDC over at Foreign Policy Watch for publishing my guest column "Obama and the Muslim World: Bridging the Gap When Words No Longer Work". 

In the early weeks of the Obama era, I examine Moroccans' views of the new American administration, and offer some insights into why the Muslim world may be hesitant to embrace the hope which Obama inspires in many Americans.

Check it out at FP Watch or below, and let me know your thoughts:

Casablanca: Play It Again, Sam? No, Thanks

Morocco map

Casablanca’s airport is the city’s biggest draw, without which it’s hard to find a compelling reason to visit the rather dingy, sprawling port. Lacking the charm of other Moroccan seaside towns, Casa (as it is known locally) seems content to focus on its role as the country's primary industrial and business center.

Even classic movie buffs who visit the real Casablanca are likely to be disappointed. While grimy in its own right, Casa doesn’t measure up to the charmingly raucous outlaw town of the famous film. The model for that port

Barack Obama and the End of the American Disappointment

Back in the US, yesterday may have been my generation’s greatest day, and I missed it. For nearly two years, I was completely immersed in the American presidential campaign while living in Washington, DC. Since moving to Morocco in September, however, I’ve had to settle for watching from a distance as this spectacular race finally drew to a close.

In Fes, as usual, misinformation was rampant in recent weeks, and what election-related “news” I received by word of mouth was uniformly absurd. Mostly, however, complete ignorance reigned. For instance, several weeks ago I asked a taxi driver, a self-described McCain supporter, what he thought of Sarah Palin, and received a blank stare in response - never heard of her.

One More Seedy Port City, and the Road Home

Map of route

After breaking camp, Saturday morning Jacqueline and I drove to Al Hoceima (الحسيمة), the largest city along this stretch of coast. After treating ourselves to a delicious breakfast of eggs, toast, and rich cafés au lait (all luxuries compared to our recent staples of stale bread and Vache Qui Rit) we explored the beaches along the coast south of the city. The guidebook again misled us with talk of “pristine, white sandy beaches” but the Cala Bonita beach just south of town was nice enough to warrant a visit.

Democratic Convention in Denver

Wow, what a week. The Democratic National Convention in Denver was a wild blur of famous people, parties, and events at all times and in all places throughout the city. (And what a city! I was very impressed with Denver – downtown is all murals, funky bars and restaurants, museums, and cultural sites.)

The excitement peaked each evening at the convention, which I was lucky to attend all four nights for work.

My organization’s focus is exclusively international, with one exception. Every four years the group invites hundreds of distinguished political leaders from around the globe to the DNC to give them an opportunity to observe the American democratic process firsthand. Thanks to the remarkable worldwide interest in this year’s US presidential campaign, turnout was high.

Ghosts from the Past, Prayers for the Future: Sierra Leone, Part II

Sierra Leone map

When I arrived back in the country shortly before the runoff presidential polls, Sierra Leoneans were tense. Sure, they reasoned, the first round had gone smoothly, but with the country’s two oldest rival parties again pitted against each other, anything could happen. A nation was once more glued to its radios, hopeful but apprehensive.

For the runoff election, I was assigned to travel to Bo, the capital of Sierra Leone’s southern region. From Freetown, to drive the approximately 200 miles to Bo took nearly seven hours.

Just outside Freetown, palm, mango, papaya, and banana trees populate the hillsides, while the lowlands are stocked with rice paddies and rows of cassava. Along the road's edge, native ferns and caladiums collect the red mud splashed by passing cars. Pied crows circle overhead, and brilliant songbirds flit among the fruit trees – whydahs trailing long tail plumes like kite streamers, weaver birds in elaborate colonies, and near rivers and pools, spirited blue pygmy kingfishers with fiery underbellies.